‘we can see clearly now the rain has gone’












Week 3: approx 246 km

Mansilla de las Mulas – Leon – Hospital de Orbigo – Santa Catalina de Somoza – Acebo – Cacabelos – Herrerias – Triacastella


  • change your routine; meet new people, leave at different times of the day, choose a different type of queso for your lunch sambo – keeping life interesting!
  • smile. Even when the going gets tough.
  • Prepare for all weather. Walking for hours through rain, fog, hail and snow (yes, all in one day) can be beautiful – but this is one place to make sure you’re dressed for the weather.
  • secure items which you are drying in the sun tightly on your bag. If you happen to lose one of your two pair of socks, get over it. Mourn and keep walking. Don’t backtrack, it’s a waste of time.
  • walk with a professional photographer! I’ve got some beautiful photos from David from Canada!


  • worry if youre the only pilgrim walking one way. At times it may seem like you are the only peregrino. Don’t doubt, you are (probably) still going the right way!
  • text your family the village name only to receive a panicked phone call two minutes later by someone about to book a flight over because you’re in hospital de orbigo. Clarification is key!



  • To the donativo stall just before Astorga. Leave a few coins, relax in the hammock, get a cute stamp, munch away on some organic biscuits, gulp down a few glasses of bio-fruit juice, all the while chatting to the lovely caretaker and reading messages left behind by other peregrinos.
  • Have a glass or two of cheap but excellent wine at the bar opposite the Xunta in Triacastella while the lovely staff serenades you with Shakira songs.


  • arriving somewhere historical on a Sunday or Monday. Historical building and churches may be closed. Also remember to go food shopping before May 1st, almost everything is shut!
  • The donativo shack after the cruz de ferro – it’s not the best coffee, but stop and take a picture.






Guidebook says…

  • tourism industry with their requirement for rapid transport are numero uno
  • will we allow ourselves to soar to new heights today
  • send our loving energy into the world

Eva’s words of wisdom…

  • The locals are probably so sick of pilgrims they welcome the other tourists, don’t hate them.
  • My anger at losing my socks certainly got me up the hill…. But was quickly changed to positive energy. You can’t stay mad long in a place so beautiful!
  • I wasnt exactly soaring up the mountain, also rolling down may have been more appropriate, due to the steep slopes after Villafranca de Bierza.