Week 4: approx 222 km
Ferrerios – Palas de Rei – Arzua – O Pedrouzo – Santiago – Negreira – Olveiroa – Finisterre
Do…
- Let Galicia remind you of the countryside at home; the traditional music, the celtic designs and the knee deep cow shit on the walking paths…
- Chat to locals you meet along the way, even if they try to convert you to a Jehovahs witness
- enjoy the good weather, it may not last forever. Without a drop of rain most of the way it drizzled for three days approaching Santiago. Don’t let it spoil your mood!
- be impulsive. Upon having our morning coffee 5km from Santiago, a Russian cyclist ordered a shot of vodka. Two hours and many local drinks later we arrived happily to the cathedral!
- Visit the fairground in Santiago, the view from the top of the ferris wheel is incredible as is the tent selling mojitos
- Look back to Santiago if you’re walking on. Great view of the city behind you!
Don’t…
- Pay attention to all scenic road detours, some yellow arrows lead toward bars
- Expect all the municipal hostels in Galicia to have kitchens, those that do may not have any cooking utensils. We ate some lovely salad prepared in a plastic bag.
- be surprised by the masses converging on Santiago. It’s become ever so popular since the film “the way”
- Forget to get advice from the previous pilgrims at the friendly pilgrims office while you’re collecting your certificate
Go…
- To stay in the donativo after Ferrieros, according to sources the food is excellent, and for €11 includes a bed
- Right before Ferrieros there is a bustling busy restaurant stop for a bit before crossing a beautiful way made of stone slabs over a stream
- For a coffee break in Meriluz before Eirexe
- where the world ends, the lighthouse in Finisterre. Remember to burn something from your trip!
- Make time for the sunset at the beach on the other side of the bay, the sunset is even better from there.
Avoid…
- Staying too long in Melide, it’s not so nice
- Porta de santiago bar 5 km before Santiago. The coffee is expensive (compared to the normal price along the way) and not so good.
- walking with a hangover. The way will stretch forever and walking up and down steep hills isn’t in your best interest.
- shopping centres. There are a few in Santiago, the taxi drivers don’t know which is best. Stick to the stores in town to pick up new items.
Book says…
- many small hamlets… few offer any facilities
- the only place we can truly inhabit is the present
Eva’s words of wisdom…
- The hills are not over yet. Few facilities doesn’t even begin to describe what isn’t there. It is a quiet walk to Finisterre. However it was also one of my favourite parts of the camino.
- The first sight of the ocean doesn’t mean Finisterre is around the corner. It’s still a bit of a walk away.
- relax. You have just walked over 800km. The present is the time to be lazy.
